Toy xBox
07-05-2006, 11:49 AM
I just wanted to put together a somewhat complete Modification history for those who have e-mailed me, and those that might consider doing something along the same lines. I will try and update with better pic’s as* I go through all the posts and my project folder.* Enjoy :D
Gas Strut Hood mod (way before all the knock offs)
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQDlAloTXn7oCM53J3j2QcvdI*t4Om1qyn6vO6nVPzUMUWQOP iUhMk8Zc0Dh11DcxRy6h8UDs0dXiBkeZfyOjuTXCytZMkKXl7X 9!69qItk/DSC00147.JPG
Greddy lightweight catch can retrofit and custom install
Ok, is it normal to take an $80 universal bolt on item and rework it to were the cost of the time, fabrication and parts to make it better cost more than the part itself?
Seems like I have been doing this all my life “More Power” “Upgrade” etc. etc…
I started with a lightweight Greddy oil catch can, and I didn’t like the way the recommended mounting method. So $100 dollars later in labor, parts and beer, I have a very clean installed oil catch can in my “Toy xBox”. But does it really matter; does the public really notice the difference? I must be insane do I need an intervention to stop this behavior, fetish?
Anyway for those of you who share this passion of overkill here are some pics of the latest mod I have probably way overdone!
Enjoy,
Here is the universal fit kit
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SgDlAqsWI2C1Gd!XP*POExpbfQ2DKrs2kThMl4UYCKlOB9nUP oWsE0PA4vVOfqK6gg4iqYBGM1lUvMnrURvyaakBCF60ChhVIvC dsUr!YlYBqc7hAQlF3Q/OilCatchTank.jpg
Before pic
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UQDxAjsX9ZaB4VNzach7q*t9KRfqKWQi0JVTM3iixde7b4l8w lSN6tso!IeZlq4s4roiufJr2to8M2ooqN08hCf6JhEh7EHPORv JRuYHgCTtqppknp7QY9ORdI8Mxe1e/CF%26SB%20close%20up.JPG
My retrofit and installed version
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwDmAqATcY1C*mqVF31iLncpmd44oojm9Zdi1I6lMAdPAFrEZ 2uIVlqskGEjwJJnUFtGv6EL!WGzaUMuU1HXXY6OKJQSr4MDC16 t59y6cqg/GCan1.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwDrAqETro1t!QJiY!vvQB6h!e!9Eqszb2OUJbjoBwdulQgfc KXMiYyylnyw73n7tTDkFlu57Ziyj6NIAk0!l3IifqdCK*YHtrZ sCkx8MHM/GCan2.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwDlAqIT6404tTYSrdjmB4H*RwvVuakypKghiFlL5a1y27wbK qKMWCPv3m!5q7ezHtYweIyM3sJtTfrKWbtT!sFtH1RgtEhGK*L kdreIWJU/GCan3.jpg
“Get your Wings” Po Boy style
Ok from day one I never liked the engine cover, to many exposed wire looms and hoses etc and I could never find a CF cover that looked like I wanted it to? So I fabricated “Wings” for the CF cover I have now.
It looks like the head of a “Transformer” out of the car but I think it came out somewhat factory looking but with a bling-bling look.
Oh yeah the material that I used for the wings I made is .080 aluminum. “Po Boy” tools included 6” vice, body panel hammers, wood blocks, side of the garage (for the special complex curve), and of course cold beer.
Enjoy,
Before
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VQDpAiEZbiOB4VNzach7q7tQ0G9VG3dOO!uww1xIeUbMdiE4O upyzXD1JB4!7fjZHuPQ5DT1NJF!GsV4PZRmSKU7C!sfYqlqk6j Zgr19K04t51HTEmR5YXxAqrElNU5H/CF%26SB%20color%20change.jpg
After
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SwDdAuoWpnSb3I2BvAGisD2HrS!h7hq2Sg99GjT6Bud!uCxzs fLbfFFPYu6nuXu1V9NNxo111*yCOVlppqrwwD*kaWPF1Q3CPSy qhKsDlbTiZx3SGX*wMA/wings%20front.jpg
HP gains are .0000009999 paresthesia :lol:* :lol:* :lol:* your results may vary!
Optima Battery power distribution system mod
Batteries and wires to me have always been an eyesore when customizing cars, at least on RWD cars you can relocate them to the trunk and get the extra benefit of weight for more grip. Well in the case of the xB and it’s FWD no luck and I have to much in the back already.
I knew about the Tsunami battery power distribution top for the Optima and decided to try it out. Like always :shock: I had to mod it out to work like I wanted it to and to carry my BCP theme I am doing in the engine compartment.
For this mod I wanted to maintain the factory fusible link box (Red Square Thingy) and try to maintain a factory look and function as well.
So using my favorite tool the Dremel XP400 (this dremel is the cit!!! ) I went to work on it first I disassembled the piece and had it painted to match the BCP. Then I drilled and tapped the negative distribution block to be able to transfer my HKS grounding wires over for the grounding system.
Next I had to fabricate a side mount system to accept the factory fusible link box and maintain use of the positive terminal cap. After two attempts and $20 for an additional cover to mod I have a clean cover that snaps on correctly. I also used some Mallory Ignition pro wire separators to keep all the grounding wires grouped together for a cleaner looking install.
The part that I really liked the most is that I no longer have to have that ugly looking top battery mounting bar. Again thanks to my trusty dremel I modified a set of bottom mounts and was able to secure the battery at the bottom for a much cleaner looking battery install.
Overall it was time consuming my mods usually are I say this is about a 10 beer project 5 for prep and 5 for install. I like the appearance that it has now, but I am working on a remote AC to DC power connection underneath for shows and going to route the positive power cables better for appearance only. I recommend this mod but only to those that have some skillz and will maintain the factory fusible link system; it is there for safety and to protect your car form fire foo's! :wink:
Before:
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwAfA5sTC404tTYSrdjmB4H*RwvVuakypKghiFlL5a0n2NTwb 89t!XuSOJFAnubYK9alh7Z8Fff1ofp78G5ojKJ3pQ2Su5z68dt 4KZX0GK0/GCan3.jpg
After:
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwA6A5YTBIwOLr9siLqE2y6HmSJmLi6rOZtlMMIM5u36YBWCq pgT4QK0Gl!0oxoMbQW4MBXkvnU1ud3bavS1Mrv!MsWsfCHCIi3 Xfy2Rt8Y/OTT_1.jpg
Unmodified:
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TQD3ArwWGXNrQDcxzU5ONdZ4pmpsuZOvrycT9F19PzfIHiRfo nQphSySyW!*cKULQWqe5FCNiF2Pup!GfeyEzia5KVcgSgKFIgY mESFO!GVahEKpA4ldTw/Tsunami263-143l.jpg
RS*R GTII series Exhaust
Install was simple the only tools you needed was a screwdriver (for rear lip removal), ratchet with 12mm socket, factory jack (and jack stand for safety) and soap and water (to make it easier to insert in rubber hangers and to wash my hands after J) Jacked it up at factory location (see manual for lifting directions) didn’t even have to clear the tire from the ground, removed passenger side rear lip piece to avoid any scratches to the lip or exhaust tip. Put on new gasket included with exhaust kit, inserted mounting supports into rubber hangers, slipped factory exhaust clamp over the connection area snugged it up, put the rear lip back on, centered exhaust tip with a folded up rag and tightened exhaust clamp.
After lowering it down I noticed it had a very cool race look on how it was mounted. From the top the exhaust tip follows the contour of the bumper cover and lip piece, slightly angled to the right. From the back the canister and exhaust tip fill the cut out area and it has a finned removable silencer. From the side and looking through the wheel you can see the polished craftsmanship of the canister and pipe, which has an upsweep angle to it. This gave it a cool look from a distance you could see the canister hanging slightly lower than the bumper cover lip. The sound and performance is just right, haven’t tested it without the silencer yet.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgAAAF0TwXpufDSRMOXOyeAk*djPx9KuSvsIefNlolaRNOKqY bS7OLrPewspXpFPCZ0jyeb7hI*k90r7eMPsYQoi9vAsiw!ni40 CsMec!Zg/RS_R1.jpg
HKS, Hotchkis, Cusco, OTG suspension upgrade (Initial suspension setup)
List of parts:
HKS hipermax WG coilovers
Hotchkis swaybars re-powder coated candy purple
Cusco frame brace re-powder coated candy purple
One Ton Garage 10mm axle spacers
TRD stainless steel braided brake lines – not completed another 5 week back order
Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar brake pads and Neo 610 brake fluid
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAdA0IWxEQ*q3c2994ql8rb7xCsoC3GMc9EcOyucu67E1kur kLHp624u98BRjHsGeIsy88fK8gvB3XSRE8ya8iA!0AMWNdMrlR jOx5xcpzAhsTHsZw8XQ/HKS%20front%201.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SwAFA8UV0iE*q3c2994qlzgfvDbhqhX9hmH!uba4OuojfxSHz yqrPugOZQ6rxVVZw8!!fPtGm0zeLU6qI*22ZLKcTBlSF664khm 4aadM08g7vSkZz0jQDg/HKS%20rear%203.jpg
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No Mo Lip, Po Boy style
First get all the proper tools (21 and over for the Beer)
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgCtApQVpQmAiDpG2M21JujhpLVbKj4ASKJcO0rkIvFRN32Xu H57kZxE53r9u1HFqcPJMFjt8bsuuVLW5h!bdNzqqhpDN8eTiYO lFt!RPcQ/WLiptools.jpg
Second take the tape and apply it to the Lip and about a Ľ” to ˝” out side the lip to protect the paint if ya slip (Remember the beer is fo after!)
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgChAmwVif9u15uoL3qgpHGE4c4e!hnLCx*vsA0lrB3t18P4V acK!WJWJJL*OX0AZcAczAKDMtnhgx6oJEZ1nnFStmfQuE0igeE YgD51DXw/WLipFront.jpg
Third jack up yer Scion and insert high dollar “No Mo Lip” tool and roll the lip, do this in small adjustments to the jack. If you get in a hurry you will either bend the wheel well out or crack yer paint!
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQChAvwUz!HEYTIOU80todsmvvx2n8YKcjxdCz3aJyUfqMIhw bFSSTBZWPf*wMGXIVqD4cnCenIGtvwUJBs27xRkyAJuJfDE2DX crAYUh8M/WLipRoll.jpg
The driver side rolled for me perfect with no damage to the seam sealer, the passenger side was a little more stubborn! The seam sealer came off on the passenger side while I was rolling (Remember to take yer time and go slow) probably cause I was sweatin my @ss off and wanted that damn beer!
So now I will have to re-apply the 3M seam sealer and mask it off and paint it with the 3M undercoating. I will update with the finished pics…
Overall it came out well and I didn’t have to buy one of those fancy schmancy gizmo’s total cost was about $6.80 for the T-Ball bat on sale at “WallyWorld” and optional beer cost…
Have fun y’all,
SE – OGTWB
TRD IST Rear frame brace retrofit mod
First of all you do not have to remove anything to install this... you should support the rear of the box to make it easier to remove the bolt that holds the rear axle to the body. I did one side at a time and I mounted the spacer to the emergency brake line first to keep it out of the way.
I didn't measure as far as using a tape each car could be slightly different in production so no set dimension is used. Basically I used a redneck measuring device "string" and some double sided tape to mark the spot where the front dowel contacts the frame.
I mounted the frame support and swung the arm up and the double sided tape stays on the frame that shows where the dowel will be located when installed.
Very important you have to drill the hole about halfway towards the rear of the marked hole so that when the arm is installed and pushed forward it locks in like the directions show... I checked and rechecked about fifty times before I drilled the hole :shock: I used a dremel to slightly enlarge the slot on the dowel to make it easier to install...
Oh yeah use a rubber hammer to move the arms forward, these are JDM and they don't powder coat in Japan. I did however I powder-coated my frame brace to match the rest of the
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SAA0A*QUw!pelEGznjDn2JCqChyF5kHpbBm7A4LV5j1QQK2Rj UPjGjm5C795NkA!*hNNQvcl2Z5NthLiW0vaPso6vG4TlloWjJn NYPZlyycvAAAAynKoAg/R%20Brace1.jpg
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Po Boy “Mo Betta Brakes”
Want “Mo Betta Brakes” on your xA or xB and don't want the expense of the big brake kit. You can buy* a extra set of factory rotors have them crossed drilled, slotted and plated or buy any other aftermarket company rotors. I choose to have mine factory and machined by Island Motorsports. I then replaced the factory brake lines with TRD stainless steel lines, replaced the brake pads with Poterfield carbon-kevlar brake pads, and flushed and refilled the brake system with NEO 610 brake fluid.
Way better braking and I am still using all the OEM parts as far as calipers and rotors. Definitely think this is a great alternative to going with the expense of a big brake kit.
TIP!!! I used the Factory Scion maintenance books available at www.cabeperformance.com for the brake info and specs…
Oh yeah all that legal stuff like do this at yer own risk and I am not responsible for ya messing yer Scion up apply are ya listen foo!
Air Runner – “Maxed Out” (Current suspension system)
everyone is getting "air runner" but it seems like I can never leave the original parts alone and I have to fabricate and change things out to make it the way I* want!
With the help of Dakota Digital www.dakotadigital.com and Air Zenith www.air-zenith.com
Now I have an “Exec” level air system with in-car Digital controlled SSFB system and a wireless remote control. The guys at Air Zenith hooked me up with a "Special Edition" Purple compressor to go with the candy purple suspension pieces I have. I also have to give props to Cabe Toyota for getting the correct color match for the candy purple on the struts and shocks that I could not powder coat! All I have to do now is finish some welding on the custom frame I fabricated and I swear this is the last mod I am doing on this Toy xBox project :wink:
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SQD4AuIVdyoQLnt16DFHXBZm7U7bXLfwnF2xcIGRIfLnNnKII lg12q1FYLW0LRBN5FcVidEz5kZFIwkps480ABuVpTOzvdQx6Y4 Vz6xRKr!nM0cLStlgHg/AR_Purple01.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SAAVA3oVdg1OOH0yqGZlei1aEBgHyDvEpsK1T*hXBnul4ETVH EuxVx4dnKSr0fr*zQVHyd8s95KrxUYhbN3xneBuropuVZ3aQJZ Q*vP2Tso4AAAAynJxAg/DDigital01.jpg
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I had to make a couple of changes on the layout to fit all the sensors, water trap, air gauge and quick connect. It is a tighter design and I have had to add more ports, I should have more photos of the install posted very soon.
The custom fabricated frame is working out fine and the Air Zenith looks right at home Major props again to AZ for the "Special Edition Purple" compressor! http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgAAAIwTlYuA4nvVX5LSqWd2H5UNA5BtMvg82l4nWftY!93Ah tSKwZ5CeYsKjJPRGbITpRNRR2rpZUqJ2OCPLq6gDIwPcXDZsdc U4fZcoMw/halm.gif
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Check out the finished project pic's of Part II (http://vipstylecars.com/forum/index.php?topic=4160.0)
Check out the finished project pic's of Toy xBox (http://vipstylecars.com/forum/index.php?topic=4062.0)
Gas Strut Hood mod (way before all the knock offs)
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQDlAloTXn7oCM53J3j2QcvdI*t4Om1qyn6vO6nVPzUMUWQOP iUhMk8Zc0Dh11DcxRy6h8UDs0dXiBkeZfyOjuTXCytZMkKXl7X 9!69qItk/DSC00147.JPG
Greddy lightweight catch can retrofit and custom install
Ok, is it normal to take an $80 universal bolt on item and rework it to were the cost of the time, fabrication and parts to make it better cost more than the part itself?
Seems like I have been doing this all my life “More Power” “Upgrade” etc. etc…
I started with a lightweight Greddy oil catch can, and I didn’t like the way the recommended mounting method. So $100 dollars later in labor, parts and beer, I have a very clean installed oil catch can in my “Toy xBox”. But does it really matter; does the public really notice the difference? I must be insane do I need an intervention to stop this behavior, fetish?
Anyway for those of you who share this passion of overkill here are some pics of the latest mod I have probably way overdone!
Enjoy,
Here is the universal fit kit
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SgDlAqsWI2C1Gd!XP*POExpbfQ2DKrs2kThMl4UYCKlOB9nUP oWsE0PA4vVOfqK6gg4iqYBGM1lUvMnrURvyaakBCF60ChhVIvC dsUr!YlYBqc7hAQlF3Q/OilCatchTank.jpg
Before pic
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UQDxAjsX9ZaB4VNzach7q*t9KRfqKWQi0JVTM3iixde7b4l8w lSN6tso!IeZlq4s4roiufJr2to8M2ooqN08hCf6JhEh7EHPORv JRuYHgCTtqppknp7QY9ORdI8Mxe1e/CF%26SB%20close%20up.JPG
My retrofit and installed version
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwDmAqATcY1C*mqVF31iLncpmd44oojm9Zdi1I6lMAdPAFrEZ 2uIVlqskGEjwJJnUFtGv6EL!WGzaUMuU1HXXY6OKJQSr4MDC16 t59y6cqg/GCan1.jpg
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“Get your Wings” Po Boy style
Ok from day one I never liked the engine cover, to many exposed wire looms and hoses etc and I could never find a CF cover that looked like I wanted it to? So I fabricated “Wings” for the CF cover I have now.
It looks like the head of a “Transformer” out of the car but I think it came out somewhat factory looking but with a bling-bling look.
Oh yeah the material that I used for the wings I made is .080 aluminum. “Po Boy” tools included 6” vice, body panel hammers, wood blocks, side of the garage (for the special complex curve), and of course cold beer.
Enjoy,
Before
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After
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HP gains are .0000009999 paresthesia :lol:* :lol:* :lol:* your results may vary!
Optima Battery power distribution system mod
Batteries and wires to me have always been an eyesore when customizing cars, at least on RWD cars you can relocate them to the trunk and get the extra benefit of weight for more grip. Well in the case of the xB and it’s FWD no luck and I have to much in the back already.
I knew about the Tsunami battery power distribution top for the Optima and decided to try it out. Like always :shock: I had to mod it out to work like I wanted it to and to carry my BCP theme I am doing in the engine compartment.
For this mod I wanted to maintain the factory fusible link box (Red Square Thingy) and try to maintain a factory look and function as well.
So using my favorite tool the Dremel XP400 (this dremel is the cit!!! ) I went to work on it first I disassembled the piece and had it painted to match the BCP. Then I drilled and tapped the negative distribution block to be able to transfer my HKS grounding wires over for the grounding system.
Next I had to fabricate a side mount system to accept the factory fusible link box and maintain use of the positive terminal cap. After two attempts and $20 for an additional cover to mod I have a clean cover that snaps on correctly. I also used some Mallory Ignition pro wire separators to keep all the grounding wires grouped together for a cleaner looking install.
The part that I really liked the most is that I no longer have to have that ugly looking top battery mounting bar. Again thanks to my trusty dremel I modified a set of bottom mounts and was able to secure the battery at the bottom for a much cleaner looking battery install.
Overall it was time consuming my mods usually are I say this is about a 10 beer project 5 for prep and 5 for install. I like the appearance that it has now, but I am working on a remote AC to DC power connection underneath for shows and going to route the positive power cables better for appearance only. I recommend this mod but only to those that have some skillz and will maintain the factory fusible link system; it is there for safety and to protect your car form fire foo's! :wink:
Before:
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwAfA5sTC404tTYSrdjmB4H*RwvVuakypKghiFlL5a0n2NTwb 89t!XuSOJFAnubYK9alh7Z8Fff1ofp78G5ojKJ3pQ2Su5z68dt 4KZX0GK0/GCan3.jpg
After:
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Unmodified:
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RS*R GTII series Exhaust
Install was simple the only tools you needed was a screwdriver (for rear lip removal), ratchet with 12mm socket, factory jack (and jack stand for safety) and soap and water (to make it easier to insert in rubber hangers and to wash my hands after J) Jacked it up at factory location (see manual for lifting directions) didn’t even have to clear the tire from the ground, removed passenger side rear lip piece to avoid any scratches to the lip or exhaust tip. Put on new gasket included with exhaust kit, inserted mounting supports into rubber hangers, slipped factory exhaust clamp over the connection area snugged it up, put the rear lip back on, centered exhaust tip with a folded up rag and tightened exhaust clamp.
After lowering it down I noticed it had a very cool race look on how it was mounted. From the top the exhaust tip follows the contour of the bumper cover and lip piece, slightly angled to the right. From the back the canister and exhaust tip fill the cut out area and it has a finned removable silencer. From the side and looking through the wheel you can see the polished craftsmanship of the canister and pipe, which has an upsweep angle to it. This gave it a cool look from a distance you could see the canister hanging slightly lower than the bumper cover lip. The sound and performance is just right, haven’t tested it without the silencer yet.
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HKS, Hotchkis, Cusco, OTG suspension upgrade (Initial suspension setup)
List of parts:
HKS hipermax WG coilovers
Hotchkis swaybars re-powder coated candy purple
Cusco frame brace re-powder coated candy purple
One Ton Garage 10mm axle spacers
TRD stainless steel braided brake lines – not completed another 5 week back order
Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar brake pads and Neo 610 brake fluid
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No Mo Lip, Po Boy style
First get all the proper tools (21 and over for the Beer)
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgCtApQVpQmAiDpG2M21JujhpLVbKj4ASKJcO0rkIvFRN32Xu H57kZxE53r9u1HFqcPJMFjt8bsuuVLW5h!bdNzqqhpDN8eTiYO lFt!RPcQ/WLiptools.jpg
Second take the tape and apply it to the Lip and about a Ľ” to ˝” out side the lip to protect the paint if ya slip (Remember the beer is fo after!)
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgChAmwVif9u15uoL3qgpHGE4c4e!hnLCx*vsA0lrB3t18P4V acK!WJWJJL*OX0AZcAczAKDMtnhgx6oJEZ1nnFStmfQuE0igeE YgD51DXw/WLipFront.jpg
Third jack up yer Scion and insert high dollar “No Mo Lip” tool and roll the lip, do this in small adjustments to the jack. If you get in a hurry you will either bend the wheel well out or crack yer paint!
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQChAvwUz!HEYTIOU80todsmvvx2n8YKcjxdCz3aJyUfqMIhw bFSSTBZWPf*wMGXIVqD4cnCenIGtvwUJBs27xRkyAJuJfDE2DX crAYUh8M/WLipRoll.jpg
The driver side rolled for me perfect with no damage to the seam sealer, the passenger side was a little more stubborn! The seam sealer came off on the passenger side while I was rolling (Remember to take yer time and go slow) probably cause I was sweatin my @ss off and wanted that damn beer!
So now I will have to re-apply the 3M seam sealer and mask it off and paint it with the 3M undercoating. I will update with the finished pics…
Overall it came out well and I didn’t have to buy one of those fancy schmancy gizmo’s total cost was about $6.80 for the T-Ball bat on sale at “WallyWorld” and optional beer cost…
Have fun y’all,
SE – OGTWB
TRD IST Rear frame brace retrofit mod
First of all you do not have to remove anything to install this... you should support the rear of the box to make it easier to remove the bolt that holds the rear axle to the body. I did one side at a time and I mounted the spacer to the emergency brake line first to keep it out of the way.
I didn't measure as far as using a tape each car could be slightly different in production so no set dimension is used. Basically I used a redneck measuring device "string" and some double sided tape to mark the spot where the front dowel contacts the frame.
I mounted the frame support and swung the arm up and the double sided tape stays on the frame that shows where the dowel will be located when installed.
Very important you have to drill the hole about halfway towards the rear of the marked hole so that when the arm is installed and pushed forward it locks in like the directions show... I checked and rechecked about fifty times before I drilled the hole :shock: I used a dremel to slightly enlarge the slot on the dowel to make it easier to install...
Oh yeah use a rubber hammer to move the arms forward, these are JDM and they don't powder coat in Japan. I did however I powder-coated my frame brace to match the rest of the
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Po Boy “Mo Betta Brakes”
Want “Mo Betta Brakes” on your xA or xB and don't want the expense of the big brake kit. You can buy* a extra set of factory rotors have them crossed drilled, slotted and plated or buy any other aftermarket company rotors. I choose to have mine factory and machined by Island Motorsports. I then replaced the factory brake lines with TRD stainless steel lines, replaced the brake pads with Poterfield carbon-kevlar brake pads, and flushed and refilled the brake system with NEO 610 brake fluid.
Way better braking and I am still using all the OEM parts as far as calipers and rotors. Definitely think this is a great alternative to going with the expense of a big brake kit.
TIP!!! I used the Factory Scion maintenance books available at www.cabeperformance.com for the brake info and specs…
Oh yeah all that legal stuff like do this at yer own risk and I am not responsible for ya messing yer Scion up apply are ya listen foo!
Air Runner – “Maxed Out” (Current suspension system)
everyone is getting "air runner" but it seems like I can never leave the original parts alone and I have to fabricate and change things out to make it the way I* want!
With the help of Dakota Digital www.dakotadigital.com and Air Zenith www.air-zenith.com
Now I have an “Exec” level air system with in-car Digital controlled SSFB system and a wireless remote control. The guys at Air Zenith hooked me up with a "Special Edition" Purple compressor to go with the candy purple suspension pieces I have. I also have to give props to Cabe Toyota for getting the correct color match for the candy purple on the struts and shocks that I could not powder coat! All I have to do now is finish some welding on the custom frame I fabricated and I swear this is the last mod I am doing on this Toy xBox project :wink:
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I had to make a couple of changes on the layout to fit all the sensors, water trap, air gauge and quick connect. It is a tighter design and I have had to add more ports, I should have more photos of the install posted very soon.
The custom fabricated frame is working out fine and the Air Zenith looks right at home Major props again to AZ for the "Special Edition Purple" compressor! http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgAAAIwTlYuA4nvVX5LSqWd2H5UNA5BtMvg82l4nWftY!93Ah tSKwZ5CeYsKjJPRGbITpRNRR2rpZUqJ2OCPLq6gDIwPcXDZsdc U4fZcoMw/halm.gif
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Check out the finished project pic's of Part II (http://vipstylecars.com/forum/index.php?topic=4160.0)
Check out the finished project pic's of Toy xBox (http://vipstylecars.com/forum/index.php?topic=4062.0)