alright have an issue running power wire in a 04 Acura RL

[civiceg94]

Alright so am trying to run my 0guage power wire threw the firewall in my 2004 Acura RL. So am clueless and mad at the same time. Because i made a hole in the engine bay for nothing so now i have a f****** hole which could be seen once the hood is open. Am wondering if you guys could tell me where do you run your power wire threw???? PLEASE HELP lol am dieing to put this system together already . and also one more question how do i take out the rear deck i dont want to mess that one up ????thanks alot for the help

[roncee]

Why u running such a big power wire? 1/0 gauge is huge. Whats your complete system specs? Mine is on the firewall next to the throttle cable and the brake booster... use a pilot hole followed by a uni-bit. A friend of mine has his actually ran under the car following along the chasis.

[civiceg94]

Its going to be over 6000 of power the system going to be throwong hopfully when everything is done so once i dri l it next to the throttle body cable theirs shouldnt be anything in the way right ?

[MELLO*VIP]

Your posts are difficult to read.

First off.. What's wrong with the first hole you drilled (that you can apparently see when you open the hood)? I don't get it... Is there something in the way behind the dash? If you're not happy with a hole you drilled just use a rubber grommet to plug it off.

Also... I wouldn't suggest running the power wire under the chassis of your car. That can lead to problems in the future when the insulation rubs off or becomes damaged. Do it right the first time and run it inside the car. Look under your car, there's a reason you don't see any wires ran that way from the factory. Some people get away with it for a while but ultimately it's not ideal and can lead to problems..

Next.. 1/0 is a good size to start with, should supply you plenty of current for a while. But if your goal is HONESTLY some 6000 watts system you'll need even more more than that... 6000 watts / 14v = 428+ amps... What kind of alternator you have that can supply that kind of current??

Just curious... Have you built and installed any audio systems before or is this your first?

This data chart might be of use to you for helping determine wire sizing:

Power Wire:

10 gauge: ~35 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <350 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <250 watts

8 gauge: ~55 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <550 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <400 watts

6 gauge: ~87 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <875 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <625 watts

4 gauge: ~140 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <1400 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <1000 watts

2 gauge: ~220 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <2200 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <1500 watts

1/0 gauge: ~350 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <3500 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <2500 watts

2/0 gauge: ~440 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <4400 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <3000 watts

4/0 gauge: ~700 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <7000 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <5000 watts

[civiceg94]

I didn't change my altentnor yet am putting. My system together first am doing the wiring I already got the subs on my way and its my cousina and me he has experieced not me.

[roncee]

First where is the hole you initially drilled? I assume that there was a problem. Like Mello- said if there is something 100% blocking you from entering the cab then use a rubber/plastic grommet to plug it. And don't think that running 1/0 under is a bad thing. We do that more often than you think on luxury cars for those who are running 1/0 -2/0 gauge power but don"t want the (firewall hole). It just has to be well ran, tucked and covered w/ loom. I suggest bringing it to your local audio spot if you don't wanna chance it. But through teh firewall is better IMO. But if your cousin has experience installing then you should be okay. 6000watts of power is large yo. Sounds like you putting a serious system together. Are you tying this all into the factory unit? Or use changing out to a aftermarket head unit? If so there is no kit for our car so you'll have to custom fab a kit. The factory amp has to be bypass also.. (hint: it behind the rear seat)

Lemme know how it comes out:biggthumpup:

[civiceg94]

Its going to be a aftermarket. Radio. Since the stock is not going to perform well. How would the stock amp be bypassed ? Ill keep this thread posted of updates of the progress of the car.

[nervekiler]

an easy tip... if your car is an auto you can usually go where the clutch normally goes through.. lots of room in most cars to fit the drill up there and u can usually see the perferated marks on the firewall padding.
NOTE: some cars where a standard transmission is not an option wont have the place in the firewall as mentioned above.

Look under your car, there's a reason you don't see any wires ran that way from the factory.

actually when they do run wires from the factory underneath the vehicle its usually in a harness covered in loom tucked up above the frame on trucks. not sure about cars i usually dont crawl underneath them.
i personally always go through the firewall. there is always a place on everycar i've encountered.

[vipka9]

first question i have is? did you find a faceplate to fit so you dont have any gaps on your indash? and where did you find it if you did. i used my stock headunit and its hitting fine with a phoenix gold outlaw amp and ti10d sub and it sounds perfect. but for some reason my car lets me turn off the amp with the stock bass knob!