My Wheels Fitment: Inspired from AME_VIP

[JDM RICE]

lol, well here I am about to embark on the jouney of making my massive wheels fit with a nasty pull.

My goal is to achieve a beautiful pull in addition to camber to achieve near flushness without any rubbing problems. this is NOT a daily driver.

I want to shoot for about 2.5 degrees of camber and ZERO toe

Another goal is to avoid paintwork. My paint is absolutely mint and would like to keep it that way.

I would like to welcome any of you to help me through this process and make it as successful as possible.

well, here are the specs

SSR D5R
18x9 +0mm 225/40/18
18x10.5 -26mm 265/35/18

I know the rear tires should probably be sized down to a 245/40/18, but I kinda wanted to have some meats in the rear, so if it comes down to it, I will downsize if I have to.

here are the initial pix

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0121.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0122.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0123.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0124.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0125.jpg

8)

discuss...lol

[CHUPACABRIO]

theres no way you be able to pull the rears without killing the paint. Not with that kinda poke

[carlos]

i agree.. thats gonna take some major pull (will the sheetmetal even give that much?) and the paint aint gonna survive that.

[shoez]

Damn thats ridiculous. Since pulling is out of the question, it looks like the only choice would be some bigass over-fenders.

[CHUPACABRIO]

i agree.. thats gonna take some major pull (will the sheetmetal even give that much?) and the paint aint gonna survive that.


if its gonna be pulled, it'll have to be cut, sectioned, filled and welded.

[callaghan.]

you need some flares my man

[jzz30tt]

You're dreaming if you think you can pull that with out messing the paint up.

Also, if you ever do get them to fit w/ or w/o overfenders, the car will look very unbalanced, because the front wheels arn't nearly as agressive as the rears.

[daltonnnn]

Damn. Really deep wheels. I thought my car needed a big pull, but yours definately needs to be pulled like crazy. Yeah, I don't think you can get away with not touching the paint with that big of a stretch.

Good luck. :)

[Gao Jian]

wheels look good but like the others are saying, you need some overfenders or some body work!

[RASRX7]

thats super wide..but if your going to try for pull....your gonna be adding material..cause i dont think its possible...based on limited amount of material there....but that would be insane looking..it might bump it up and end up looking like an add on fender flare..maybe you can skip all that with the over fender.....finish product would be a site to see... :)

[AME_VIP]

hey man glad you made on here. welcome

From your requirements it sounds like selling the wheels and getting some that you can fit without pulling would be a better choice. If you do want to go for it, 245 and more than 2.5 camber will be needed.

On the rears, what is the measurement from the fender to the start of the flange on the wheel? (How much is it sticking out)

[Pagong]

Looks like its sticking out as much as my fitment... ;D

[jbo]

Nice car and this will be a challenge to stretch but good luck flares will look nice too figure it out and have fun.

[OnTop]

be a baller and go wide-repaint the car with a custom color

[One Ton VIP]

Ok yah you're definitely not JDMRICE Richard.. I was a little confused at first.
Anyway, just curious, but what was your thought process when ordering wheels that were about 2" more out in the rear than the front? The offset discrepancy between f and r on S14 is about 3-5mm, so going with a rear wheel that sticks out so much more than the fronts will eventually lead to a major imbalance in, if anything, appearance. But I am serious about learning what led you to get those particular fitment wheels though, as I think a lot of people in the US right now are falling into the trap of "going too far for the sake of having too much."

[JDM RICE]

hey man glad you made on here. welcome

From your requirements it sounds like selling the wheels and getting some that you can fit without pulling would be a better choice. If you do want to go for it, 245 and more than 2.5 camber will be needed.

On the rears, what is the measurement from the fender to the start of the flange on the wheel? (How much is it sticking out)


I just went and measured, and it is roughly 2 1/4 inches from the top of the fender to the start of the flange.

I honestly think it'll be feasibly once I get my RUCAs in and run a smaller tire. Whether or not I will need paint work depends on how slow I go, from what I've been told. I plan on several hours on each fender to get them as smooth and ripple-free as possible.

I'm going to start pulling on the fender tonight and see if I can get some results.

any suggestions or tips before I jump into it fellas?

[carlos]

metal wasnt made to stretch... good luck trying to pull it.

[BillmanVIP]

Use a heat gun to help keep that nice paint from cracking.... definetly go slow and have patience or your pull will end up looking like some of the other guys on zilvia. :buck2:

[firelizard]

I know you like your original paint and it's probably hard to part with BUT....

Dude, you will never pull it 2 1/4" without it looking ugly and still having to repaint, it needs flares bad. Also, I would recommend spacers for the front so at least it won't be such a tapered look from front to rear. SSRs are expensive so you probably don't want to get rid of them I'm guessing?

BN Sports to the rescue!
http://www.bn-sports.co.jp/2door/s14_t4_early.html
+50mm rear fenders and +20mm fronts. Might (I think probably) have to flare the fenders to get the extra room under there and you'll need some mad camber I think too.

[AME_VIP]

hmmm oneton makes a good point about balance. Perhaps some more aggressive fronts (or big spacers) and wide fenders front and rear. I would have been all over getting over fenders for my rear had they been less than 1000 US for rear blister fenders alone. You are lucky to have an s14 where there are many choices for blister fenders.

2 1/4 = about 57mm That would be some pull! Also, I never heard of anyone successfully pulling without needing paint afterwards.

[bBOXD]

Alright, what is really going on now?! hmmm...

:uglystupid2: i mean come on? No paint work?! hah goodluck.

People are now just trying to do too much. I mean just think about how incredibly funny looking this will end up.

[JDM RICE]

well, i started on my front fenders. I figured that they'd be easier to replace since I'm still getting the hang of pulling fenders. so messing them up won't be a big deal...lol

well, there are a couple of flaws, but overall I'm very pleased with the results.

here are the first pix with my camber plates maxed out, just for fun guys :p

Before
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0380.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0381.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0383.jpg

AFTER, camber plates are maxed out in the other direction, positive camber likely

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0385.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0386.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0387.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/sizzo2/IMG_0388.jpg

still gotta fix a small buckle towards the rear of the fender, but overall not a bad first experience

and best of all, NO PAINT CHIPS! The heatgun we used definately helped. I also scored the fender with a blaze for a clean break in case it did

[firelizard]

Nice pull! Looks good so far

[CHUPACABRIO]

I just went and measured, and it is roughly 2 1/4 inches from the top of the fender to the start of the flange.

I honestly think it'll be feasibly once I get my RUCAs in and run a smaller tire. Whether or not I will need paint work depends on how slow I go, from what I've been told. I plan on several hours on each fender to get them as smooth and ripple-free as possible.

I'm going to start pulling on the fender tonight and see if I can get some results.

any suggestions or tips before I jump into it fellas?




to give you a example. this car
http://www.evolutionsports.com/images/gallery/3556.JPG

has something like 6 hours on each fender,, required alot of welding and a re-spray.

[AME_VIP]

nice work on the pull with no paint cracking!!

That looks like a pretty big pull on the front. Are you worried that maybe the front wheels will be sunk now with -1 deg camber or so?

I look forward to seeing how the work goes on the rears.

[alpha]

umm dunno what u think guys but he still can buy overfenders for the front and for the rear too! and maybe extra 35 mm on rear will help it a bit,and maybe if not enough just customize them...

like the wheels:)

[bBOXD]

Awesome pull man! :) I retract my last statement. :P This is gonna turn into an awesome project. Are you still gonna pull the rears or run overfenders?

[young gun]

car would be sweet on air....

[Pimplux_A4]

time for some over-fenders dude... the rear looks nuts! :)

[hipermax_d]

those wheels are perfect for the car
as for the fenders, great job on stretching without cracking and repainting.
kudos

[irax]

I like the fronts befor more then the after... but then im "just a drifter" so... yeah... anyways

it is a clean fender roll better then a local shop i can think off.... *cough*speedalliance*cough* hahah JK
but yeah thats a really clean roll... now what kinda of heat gun did you use? electric or butane? and why not a heat box?

[One Ton VIP]

The only way to "pull" a rear fender beyond an inch (and not have it look like ASS) is to separate the inner fender from the outer qtr panel skin. Being able to roll and pull a front fender will do nothing to prepare you for the amount of work needed out back.... Honestly, chances are very great that you will muck things up and the results will look quite horrid... it's expected your first time around. Now if you don't care cuz you have the money to have someone else fix your mistakes, then by all means, experiment and learn... it does look like you have the money as backup, so it hopefully won't end up like 90% of all other 240s that are taken too far and left to look like crap for the remainder of their days.
I still think that, besides the mistake of getting rear wheels that were way too far out relative to the fronts, that the front fenders should not have been pulled, when the front wheels in their current incarnation would fit totally fine under 100% stock fenders! You could have gone into the negative offsets with a 9" front and still have it fit under rolled (not pulled) fenders. So it might behoove you to take a breather and rethink things now before proceeding and ending up with regrets...

[jdmpalace]

Did you have these for sale a while ago ??
But I have to agree with van regarding the fronts, I'm running the exact same size and offset wheels under stock rolled fender on my s14 !! But I would love to see the rear pull, but good thing if you messed them up there is always the over fender option !! good luck with your project !!

[chrisngo]

Overfenders are probably the best option. What is the point of stuffing that much wheel under a "stock" fender?

As far as performance, I assume you change the wheels out at the track. Staggering only induces understeer...drifters look for oversteer.

If your wheel choices were based on pimp factor, you've succeeded. If you chose those for optimum drift characteristcs, you failed.

Nice wheels overall.
Chris

[viplife]

Staggering only induces understeer...drifters look for oversteer.


wow. i had no idea.

[S_Ichi_San]

If you chose those for optimum drift characteristcs, you failed.



http://superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0506_soarer_02_z.jpg


those wheels look like they're chosen for optimum drift characteristics....................


to jdmrice, just get some 50mm rear widebody panels. then run stretched tires and camber to fit.