Nice work Juzzo!!! keep moving and put the bottle down
we dont make the beer boxes trash cans, we use them to cover our expensive wheels when we cut/weld/grind/paint/sand being drunk lol
makin some progress!!!
You chug like a girl.... haha nah nah good shit going on here man. keep it up
no cutting, no soldering, dont even need to open the driver door for this one! hope this helps!! :D
DIY: Cuban Wire Harness Relocation! ('93 GS300)
1. unplug the harness from the fuse box in the ENGINE BAY!
2. unplug the airbag sensor underneath the fender and the two plugs to the reservoir.
3. pull down the harness and inspect the wires. (you can see where i had it run before)
4. find this hole just above where the harness comes though from the interior.
5. reroute the harness through the hole.
6. watch out for the hood dampener when shutting the hood.
7. and finally! slam the **** out of the front with your coilovers to celebrate no more harness!
Some work done last night and this morning... fender still need a coat of spray filler before it's done. Also had to weld a little piece in the door because I cut too much on the first go around
Gotta lead solder the door, apply bondo, spray filler and a lot sanding. Maybe I'll manage to get this into the paint booth by the end of April
How I cut mine to get the perfect edge was use welding wire.
Taped it to the lower edges of the fender on one side, put some slack in and taped it to the other side. This way it follows the natural contour of the fender, but all while allowing you to have a perfect height adjustment for how high you want to cut. Once you have your height desired. loosely tape it down so you dont mess up the form. sharpie trace the outline, remove, angle grind, enjoy.
Yeah thanks for the tip (it was you or OG that talked about it last year)...
I used regular 2mm thick steel wire that I got from my local hardware store. But because I went crazy with the final cut I left the wire in and welded the sheet metal slices on it. Got away with minimal warping and also I used two wires on top of each other and welded them together, I managed to create a strong structure out of it. So I didn't have to stamp an edge to the fender line. It's nice and strong now, so don't matter if my wheel gets a little misaligned and makes contact with the fender, it shouldn't fuck it up too bad.
Might have been easier to just try a basic radius, but I was skeptical if it would work. I knew that I'd require massive room for the mildly stretched tires, and also I wanted to create a stock'ish looking fender. It's always so much more of a mind fuck when you just can't really see what's been done to the ride to fit certain wheels. So I took the hard road and fully re-created the fender. Only thing that I was pondering before welding the whole thing up, was should I center the fender precisely according the wheel... well I just eyeballed it, and now it sits a little front sided in the wheel well. I kinda like that look, has more of a non-bodywork vibe to it.
Yeah it does a bit. I like it though.
I need to get back to mine too. I am not sure if one side someone leaned up on it or what but the fender edge is a little warped. But it is good its not done. just ran out of time and threw it in primer so it dont rust. Tomorrow I am taking the shocks out and hope to mod them so i can lower the car another 2inch or so. I still have massive rake and wheel gap in back.
Point is, I look at yours and it makes me want to go work on the car with what little time I have.
Okay time for a lil update... slow-n-steady does it
Shell has been dismantled and I've started prepping for paint.
Fixed the door caps and reinforced 'em. Also decided to do test a piece with the paint before I order more. Most paint supplies are in, just need to order more paint and the spray filler that I forget off the 1st order.
Btw don't worry about the crappy look on the door cap, it's just a test run to see what the smoky granite mica looks like and how the mipa paint/clear lays on.
Also figured out how to do the lower front arms eventually, just waiting on the hard extension nuts to cut-n-weld em in place. I'm going to take appr. 40mm off the arm and then these will be welded right at the lower ball joint "socket".
This design will simplify the process and be cheaper overall, so I'll go with it for now. Kinda like a test, just need to fab up longer tie rod ends. But that ain't no biggie
Took a break from massaging the body kit pieces, and did one front lca for testing to see how much work I've to do to the front fenders.
As you can see it's quite a bit longer when fully retracted, and there ~40mm of adjustment on the 20mm bolt. I think I'm gonna get a nice front camber outta these
After I get the stronger extension nuts I can get my buddy to tig weld the lca's properly, these are just for testing while the car is on jack stands.
Also I planned these to act like 15mm rca block, 'coz I welded the end piece a tad higher than stock location.
FLCA's aren't done properly yet, bodywork still in progress... but got new bearings & seals for the diff, so decided to swap out the torsen lsd I had on the shelf.
Gotta say it was a pain in my ass job to do, but now it's done. After being under the car 21 years everything was a bit tight, I even had to cut out the old bearings
And now that the diff was off I just had to paint it aswell, don't just yet know if I should spray sum metallic blue on top of that silver... or just throw it back under as is. I'm gonna sleep on it .
This outta way, I even might find more motivation to hurry up with the bodywork and spray a sanding coat over the weekend.... hmmm