even i know audiobahn...
hertz/audison is good stuff. both elettromedia. the audison amps (lrx and up) are nice, and the mille line of speakers is good (the high energy line was hot for a minute but i don't think it held up to other stuff that was available at the same price point).
audison bit one
audison 5.1k
hertz ml280
hertz ml1600
hertz ml3000
would be my hertz/audison setup... but i know you could do better for the money.
^ yea im starting to realize i cant have a budget LOL
what i would run:
bit one/ms8
dynaudio esotec 242
tru s44/s45 (bridged) or s25 (more headroom the better here. dyns are thristy)
tru s500
dynaudio mw182 (infinite baffle install)
this is very similar to the setup i initially bought and have modified over a couple years. going into the titan soon:
jl cleansweep
dynaudio custom esotec (large format tweeter, 8" midrange)
tru s44 (bridged)
tru s500
jl audio stealthbox
i'm using the cleansweep because i do not want to do a lot of tuning. running stock h/u because i like my 6 disk changer and other features. chosing the stealthbox because of the way it looks. overpriced/underbuilt but whatever... for this particular install it's what i want.
new systenm for the q will consist of:
carputer
dynaudio esotar
custom tru super billet
just depends on type of music you tend to listen to and how...what kind of quality you expect from it...from what you said on the mcintosh stuff youre heading in the way of SQ "sound quality" and the budget you set...is blown out the window just by going with a processor...me id personally recommend the AUDIO CONTROL DQ-L8 or the AUDISON BIT ONE...just depends on how in depth youre trying to get with the tuning but they do have different options out there. on the install on your acura tl...youre gonna have to by-pass the noise canceling mics in the car if you dont its gonna send feed back signals to your inside speakers and act all crazy...but other then that pretty basic install...subs you can always build a box ported through the cab from the ski pole holes...if it has it atleast my wifes 2007 acura tl type s did...the subs id do something more along the lines of IMAGE DYNAMICS ID MAX...and for speakers depends on youre style of music can get stuff designed for mid-bass or stuff designed for loudness
imo, the simpler the better.
some sort of stock integration, a 5 channel amp, some speakers youve heard and liked, a nice pair of subs, and most importantly, a competent installer if youre not going to do it yourself (most important).
def. going for a SQ build..i listen to a wide range of music from underground hiphop to triphot to dubstep and house to post hardcore to death metal...a lot of hip hop will be playing on my system...but not too much main stream bump in the trunk type of stuff.
infinite baffle is ALWAYS an option, doesn't have to be vented to the trunk ya know (but pretty much every car has rear speakers which can easily be replaced with 8-10" subs with proper product selection). there are a ton of ib capable subs, not just the ones advertised as such. if you haven't heard an ib sub that sounds good, then you haven't heard a proper ib install. the characteristics of infinite baffle are flatter frequency response than boxed installs. it's not a high output setup, it's about quality.
Mike ... I see that you tend to read what ever you want... I SAID it's not an option on the TL because of A SPECIFIC REASON... The deck area has only 5" clearance before you hit the trunk lid springs... Very limited products with less than 5" mounting depth...
I guess you're right... I haven't heard a great ib setup that lasted more than a month before the sub blew. I'm no rookie to the audio game Mike...
^Dominicans in NY don't play when it comes to audio lol. Most of the times its stock cars with 12k in the trunk. They need their music
i read what you said, it just wasn't valid so i bypassed it. finding a sub with a an appropriate mouting depth is just a matter of product selection. 5" is not a challenge.
true infinite baffle (vs. free air) involves completely sealing off the trunk area, which also opens up the area behind the back seat as a mounting location. alternatively, it's not uncommon have a new rear deck which increases clearance on the back side. there's really and endless amount of solutions if you want to make an ib setup work.
ib is a low power configuration. a non-ib marketed sub used in an ib application generally has about half the power handling it would in a boxed application. that may be why you've seen them blow frequently. gotta know the rules to win the game.
You're really a piece of work... I know for a fact that anything is possible with endless resources... Adrian wanted something simple and economical. I believe that he clearly stated that from the start; I see that you bypassed that too.
You've hit the nail on the head... ib setups in my opinion don't produce... the end user typically craves for more bass and in turn adjust the amplifier output (on his/her own against the installer recommendations) and causes the sub to blow. I've seen it too many times.
I'm just trying to help Adrian figure out something that's going to be good from the start... instead of going through like 4 different setups like I did on the TL... What do I know right? I did remove the rear windshield, relocated seatbelt mechanisms, completely sealed trunk area and designed a port via a custom deck on the TL... However, you are the know it all around these parts (on paper)...
whatever homie. you're butt hurt, that's your problem. i'll still be right here chillin when you get over it. see you then.
produce what? addy said he was more concerned about sound quality than output, which is why i suggested ib. you obviously want him to follow in your footsteps regardless of his goals. you say it's not possible, but trunk springs... for real? that's your (or your installer's) big issue? my bad pro. building a badpass box is easier than ib? or dropping your car off at the stereo shop is easier?
you obviouysly want to make it an argument, but i'm not interested. this isn't even your topic. i know what i know so i'll provide what information i have to offer and leave it at that (that's what we're here for right?). if you have an issue with something i said then feel free to examine it further; but don't get mad when i can back it up, and remember you're the only one trying to pick someone else's contribution apart. everything this "know it all (on paper)" knows is the result of hard work, don't expect me to apologize.
Why would I ever be butt hurt? Are you even serious... Sounds like you the one acting emotional here.
Only place I just dropped off any car of mine was the body shop. Get your facts in order.
It really isn't that serious. I gave my recommendations and you gave yours. He will do what ever he wants at the end of the day.
I'll be right here too... I don't need or would ever ask for an apology. You can take that to the bank.
apology accepted.
i feel like jerry springer. regardless, thanks for EVERYONES input, its all being processed and considered.